Jonathan's blog

I don’t use Windows much, except on my home media centre. For a while I’ve been running Vista and I’ve generally been impressed with the Media Center application.

I read about Windows 7 and was pleased to hear about the Ultimate Steal protomotion for students (and those with .ac.uk email addresses). The high prices of Vista and of Windows 7 off-the-shelf were a real off-putter for me, but the Ultimate Steal price of £30 for an upgrade seems a reasonable price to me. I’m prepared to pay £30 for a product I will use most days.

So I downloaded the 64-bit upgrade for Windows 7 Home Premium. Unfortunately, I hadn’t bothered to read that it’s not possible to upgrade a 32-bit Vista to a 64-bit Windows 7.

So I converted my DigitalRiver upgrade package to a bootable ISO by following this guide. Booting the Windows 7 installer worked fine – however it rejected my product key. It didn’t give a reason, but I assumed it was because my key covered upgrades only, and not clean installs.

Well, my only choice for using my product key legitimately was to “obtain” a copy of 64-bit Vista from somewhere. I installed Vista Home Premium x64, choosing not to enter a product key and not to activate. I immediately ran the Windows 7 upgrade tool and my product key was accepted. The upgrade took a while but was successful.

What a nuisance!

When I get my Vista-based Media Center to scan for FreeView channels, it finds them all correctly. When I go to add listings, I choose my region and it fetches them. But ITV1 and ITV2 both lack listings – despite the fact that the listings in question appear to be available.

There’s a tweak you have to do, and then it all works wonderfully.

1. First go to the Main Menu, choose Tasks and then Settings.
   

   Step 1

2. Choose TV
   

   Step 2

3. Choose Guide
   

   Step 3

4. Choose Add Listings to Channel
   

   Step 4

5. Choose the channel that is causing you problems. For me it was ITV1 and ITV2 (although oddly not ITV2+1).
   

   Step 5

6. Scroll down the alphabetical list of available guides, and choose the right one for your channel. As you can see, there may be more than one available guide for some of the channels, so try both until you get one that works.
   

   Step 6

7. Choose Save
   

   Step 7

8. Rinse and repeat for each of the channels that is lacking guide data.
9. Open the Guide and make sure the data is now there.
   

   Step 9

I decided that I need to sort out the way I do my personal calendaring.

Currently I only use my phone’s built-in calendar. I nearly always have my phone with me, but it’s a bit of a pain to enter stuff on when I’m sat at a computer anyway, and carrying all that information solely on my phone presents a huge risk of loss, theft or breakage.

I need some kind of centralised store of information that is able to sync with all the devices and programs I want to use, namely:

• Some sort of cross-platform calendar client – mainly for use on Linux but also nice to be able to use similar software if I’m on Windows or OS X.
• Sony-Ericsson P1i (Symbian) built-in calendar
• iPhone, for when I get one
• Web interface, for those times when I’m borrowing a computer and can’t install a client.

Google Calendar seems to be a good choice. It’s flexible and can sync with lots of things.

Linux

So I installed Lightning on all my Fedora and Ubuntu machines. It’s a calendar extension for Thunderbird, which I already use. To install it yourself:

On Fedora:
yum install thunderbird-lightning
On Ubuntu:
apt-get thunderbird-lightning

It’s easy to set up, too. Suppose your Google account is joebloggs@gmail.com, then you would…

• Add a new calendar to Lightning by right-clicking in the Calendar area
• Choose On the Network
• Select CalDAV
• Enter your location as https://www.google.com/calendar/dav/joebloggs@gmail.com/events
• Give the calendar a name

OS X and Windows

It’s a little more work to install Lightning on OS X. You have to download the add-on from Mozilla, and install it in Thunderbird. Same story for Windows.

It’s quite straightforward and there are instructions on the website.

When you’re done, follow the same instructions as for Linux to subscribe to your Google calendar in Lightning.

Sony Ericsson UIQ

Setting up Google Calendar on my Sony Ericsson P1i was a bit of a pain, too. The P1i can’t interact with Google natively, I had to set up an account with Goosync to enable this. Goosync talks to Google, and your phone talks to Goosync using SyncML.

But once you have a Goosync account, you can synchronise a lot of handsets with Google calendar.

So first, you will need to set up an account with Goosync. It’s free and very easy. Goosync will ask you to tie your Goosync account to your Google account.

There’s also an option to have the settings for your phone sent automatically to your handset. However this didn’t work for me so I had to enter the settings manually.

Assuming the sync task on your phone has been set up properly, do a  test run to make sure it all works.

• If possible, connect to a wireless network first. If not, 3G will have to do.
• Go to the Main Menu
• Go to Tools
• Go to Remote Sync
• Find the profile that syncs with Goosync
• Find the sync task called Calendar. Make sure it is ticked, and then tap Sync to start off the first synchronisation.

If that worked, you can now run the sync task whenever you like from within the calendar itself.

• Open your phone calendar
• Tap More
• Tap Calendar manager
• Tap Synchronise

That’s all there is to it! Unfortunately there’s no way of making your calendar synchronise automatically at set intervals, but that’s probably a good thing, because you can’t get stung for 3G charges!

iPhone and iPod touch

Coming soon…

My requirements

When I built this computer back in January, I had carefully considered the RAID storage configuration. My requirements were basically:

• Must dual boot Fedora and some flavour of Windows (unfortunately)
• Fedora must have a redundant /home partition, as it holds my most important data
• Windows must have a fast Media (aka /home) partition for my audio work
• Would also be nice to have redundant OS partitions

The initial plan

So I decided to buy a pair of identical 320GB disks for the OS, a set of three 640GB disks for my media. My new motherboard had 4 SATA ports on an ICH10R controller, and 2 SATA ports on some other SATA controller.

It seemed best to set up a fakeraid RAID5 array across the 3 media disks in the ICH10R controller, and to let the OSs do their own thing on the 2 OS disks.

I split both of the OS disks in half to allow Linux software RAID1 (mirroring) across both of its RAID partitions, which would be mounted as /. The two partitions showed up to Windows as C: and D:. It is not possible to use Windows software RAID (aka Dynamic Disks) on a Windows boot partition so I installed Windows on C: and used D: for Program Files.

I created a RAID5 array across the 3 disks using the ICH10R RAID BIOS. Booting into Windows, it was immediately spotted so I cut the device in half and created drive J: for my media. Sorted – it was fast and worked nicely.

No such luck with Fedora 10 (the latest relkease at the time I built this PC). Anaconda, the Fedora installer, was not able to see the RAID partition – it only saw the three separate disks. Try as I might, I could not get round this. Kind of a showstopper.

Onto plan B

I figured that I could avoid using the ICH10R fakeraid by keeping the disks as 3 separate disks, cutting each in half and using three halves for Linux software RAID, and 3 halves for Windows Dynamic Disks. No such luck – Windows is only able to use a whole disk as a Dynamic Disk, and wasn’t able to share it with Linux. Bugger.

What I ended up with

Given that Windows and Linux cannot share a RAID array, whether it be software or pseudo-hardware, my only choice was to somehow divide up the disks.

The two OS disks were fine as they were; Windows was not using RAID but rather a more manual approach to having two disks (OS on C: and Program Files on D:).

Eventually I decided to give Windows two of the media disks and use them in a RAID0 (striped) Dynamic Disk for performance. This still gives approximately the performance of a 3-disk RAID5 array, but without the redunancy. I get around this by not keeping anything permanently on the RAID0 array. It is only used as a cache/buffer during audio work, and the audio files are primarily stored on my server via the network.

This left just a single disk for Fedora’s /home partition. It doesn’t tick the box of having redunandcy, but thanks to my hourly backup script this is less essential.

This diagram shows my current sub-optimal setup. Click for a bigger version. Windows partitions are in red and Linux in blue.

My partition setup

The future

Since setting up this PC, I happened across a blog post that seems to be the answer to my prayers. It’s a bit hacky, but it’s the only documented way I have seen of getting a dual-boot system to share an ICH10R array.

Next time I can be bothered to reinstall both OSs, I will write about it here.

Note: This article is under development. More info and screenshots will be added later. Keep checking back!

I decided to buy a mobile broadband USB modem yesterday. For those of you who don’t know, I work as a wireless network & VPN specialist for the University of Bristol. At the time of writing, there are 507 access points around campus, giving pretty good coverage. However I often have to visit locations with dead wireless to fix it – and it’s times like these that mobile broadband would come in really handy.

After a bit of market research, I found that Three was the cheapest network; however their standard issue USB modem is made by ZTE and some Googling shows that this isn’t well supported by Linux. That’s a showstopper for me. However, O2 offer Huawei modems which, according to the Internet, work out of the box with recent versions of NetworkManager, which is included with distros such as Fedora and Ubuntu.

After a quick word with an O2 sales adviser, I was told that Windows and OS X are supported, and Linux is not only unsupported, but “won’t work”. Of course, I took this with a pinch of salt. I prefer to believe articles on FedoraForum, for example.

I run a number of operating systems on my various computers. It’s not essential to have it working on all of them, but it would be nice. Here’s what I’ve got:

• Home desktop PC: Dual boot Fedora 11 with Windows Vista for occasional gaming or audio work
• Main laptop: EeePC 901 with Ubuntu Netbook Remix 9.04
• Secondary laptop: HP nx7400 dual boot Fedora 11 with Windows XP for occasional stuff (such as using my slide scanner)
• Work PC: Fedora 10
• Work laptop: Macbook with OS X 10.5 Leopard

So how did O2 Mobile Broadband really fare on these various systems?

Ubuntu Netbook Remix

First I tried it with the computer I am likely to use most on the move – my trusty EeePC. I connected the modem and was immediately greeted with a screen saying it had detected a USB modem.

I was asked to pick a network provider from a short list.

Setup was complete!

I now connect by using the NetworkManager list, the same way as for regular wireless networks. However, even if I connect to O2 Mobile Broadband, it still uses wireless networks in preference if possible. Very sensible!

Using NetworkManager to select a 3G connection

Fedora

Fedora runs a very similar version of NetworkManager to Ubuntu. The main difference is that you don’t get a magic wizard to put the settings in for you. But don’t worry, it’s quite simple.

1. Right click the NetworkManager icon, click Edit Connections
2. Under the Mobile Broadband tab, click Add
3. Do the same on your Ubuntu PC, except click Edit.
4. Copy the settings over (or look them up from O2).
5. Done!

Windows XP

Getting it to work on Windows was easy, although I was not impressed by the software. When you plug in the USB modem, it automatically mounts as a virtual CD-ROM which then autoruns the installer. It’s all themed in the O2 colours and looks smart, even if horrible and blue. Installing it is a simple case of clicking Next repeatedly.

But what I didn’t like was the way that the software automatically takes control of your wired and wireless connections too, without consent.

The main screen

In its defence, it does work and it does do the job. It even has nice features, such as being able to prioritise various connections or networks. You can say you want the wired to always take precedence, followed by your home wireless network, then the 3G network, and finally your neighbour’s wireless.

Listing wireless and 3G networks

However, the application is ugly, blue and blobby. It looks like a UFO. It installed yet another tray icon I don’t want, and it’s changed the way I connect to wireless networks. Of course I’m capable of adapting to the change, but I liked the way I connected to networks before. Why force me to change?

One thing I haven’t tested yet is its ability to connect to WPA2-Enterprise (802.1x) networks, which I use daily as part of my job. This is where lots of other third-party wireless applications fall down.

Tonight I will look into ways to remove the app but keep the driver – and perhaps have the 3G connection available to me as an on-demand connection, the same way that Windows handles VPN connections.

Overall, I’m glad I will almost never be using this laptop with my 3G connection.

Mac OS X Leopard

Despite Apple Macs having a reputation for being intuitive and easy to use, installing the USB modem was a nightmare and I still haven’t got it to work.

While Windows and OS X are the two officially supported platforms, the OS X software is just the default Huawei software without any O2 theming at all. O2 haven’t even bothered to bap in the config in advance. Plugging in the USB modem causes a directory to be mounted, containing an installer and a PDF document. The PDF briefly explains how to install the application and fill in the settings. It has a series of screenshots and simple instructions, although still daunting enough compared with the ease by which most Mac applications are installed.

The software itself is ugly and a bit clunky. It doesn’t have anything sensible like a “tray” icon. You have to load the application manually before you want to use the connection. If you frequently use the software, it would be best to make a dock icon, which you also have to do manually.

Worst of all, it doesn’t actually work (for me). I followed the guide exactly and yet when I came to connect, it always fails with a useless error message of “Connection failure!”.